About two years ago, when the chef Daniel Humm developed a dish — celery root braised in a pig’s bladder with black truffles — and presented it as a delectable pale sphere on a white plate, he had a glimpse of the less-is-more aesthetic he’d been seeking.
At Momofuku Nishi, David Chang’s Magic Shows a Little Wear
The strongest dishes are exquisitely controlled plates of cold vegetables or protein that could easily fit into the lineup of a marathon menu at Momofuku Ko, the tasting counter where Nishi’s executive chef, Joshua Pinsky, cooked for more than five years. (Photo: Devin Yalkin for The New York Times)
In Chengdu, Xiong A’bing, a chef who runs a chain of restaurants called Rustic Impressions, specializing in robustly traditional dishes, said people would tire of the race toward spicy novelty. (Photo: Adam Dean for The New York Times)
“Sichuanese cuisine really faces a crisis,” said Wang Kaifa, a chef who has been leading a campaign against what he sees as the creeping debasement of the region’s celebrated cooking. (Photo: Adam Dean for The New York Times)
Paying Tribute to Porchetta, the Ancient Italian Pig Roast
Porchetta is a simple and festive preparation, like a whole pig roast in the American South. It’s from the Umbrian farming tradition, not a professional butcher’s masterpiece like the famous salamis from nearby Norcia. (Photo: Chris Warde-Jones for The New York Times)
Filipino Food With Subtlety, and a Splash of 7Up, at F.O.B.
From cookbooks and childhood memories, and through trial and error, American-Chinese cooks are feeling their way into one of the world’s most complex, ancient and demanding culinary traditions. Here, the China-quiles at Fung Tu.